Friday, December 21, 1990

RTW Trip - Russia, China, Thailand - Winter 1990

Continued From Previous Blog

Lenningrad
Leningrad
After a six hour train ride from Helsinki, I arrived in Leningrad - chatted with a Hungarian guy most of the way.  I arrived in Russia with no money and no idea of what to do - and no where to change money.  It was not the warmest welcome: customs officials going through all my stuff and reading my letters, and the station looked like something form the 1930s - including old cash registers - not a computer was to be seen.  Wandering around for 20 minutes and trying to understand Cyrillic, I was approached by a guy offering to take me to the hotel for 100 Fin-marks.  I walked away - he then dropped the price to ten.  I was staying at the Hotel Olgina, about 25 kms from the station.  After first being given a room that was locked, I settled in room 245.

The next morning I was to get bus 110 to the city, but a cab driver got to me first - 10 rubles to Nevsky Prospect, the main street in Leningrad.  I was dropped off at the foot of the Hermitage Museum, but it was closed that day.  The first stop was St Isaacs Cathedral - just stunning.  I looked around for a while and then went to the observation deck to take pictures (not allowed) From there I wandered around taking pictures of various monuments and went in a few shops - the ones I could find.  I ended in a department store - it is quite apparent that no one has taken a class in Marketing.  I found a couple of rolls to eat and finally found a place that sold ice cream - so I bought two!  As I was taking a picture I was approached by two guys trying to sell me a rabbit skin hat for $10 US.  I declined, but then ended up spending the whole day with Igor and his friend, as well as their "friend-girl" Larissa - we went to a cafe for coffee and biscuits and just wandered the city.  I took the bus back to the hotel and got some directions from a guy on the bus (Michael) - who ended up meeting me for drinks at the hotel that evening.  Michael is from Cheylabensk, a city on the border of Europe and Asia - in Siberia.  He then showed me his house, which was just detached from the hotel.  We struggled through some broken english, looking at post cards of his home town.  I tried to call Larissa and Igor at 10:30pm (as they asked me to) but never got through - the phone just rang.

Hermitage
The next day I went with Michael to the Hermitage.  It is incredible to be surrounded by all the paintings from the 17th - 19th centuries European masters.  Rembrandt, Van Gogh, Gogan, Picasso, De Vinci, and Michelangelo were all represented.  They say that is you spent one minute looking at each object in the museum it would take an entire lifetime to view the place.  With over 1000 rooms and 2.5 million objects it was just amazing.  After looking through what we wanted to see and me counting Rembrandts (100+ I saw there), Michael and I grabbed a dinner of chicken at a shop.  It took more than an hour in line for two miserable legs of chicken - ah, the success of centralized planning!  We got back to the hotel at about 6pm, and after a short time reading Larissa called for me to meet her and Igor at 7:30pm at a bar/restaurant where we spent the rest of the evening drinking and chatting.  I had to take a taxi back to the hotel since I missed the last bus.
Igor, Larissa, and I

The next morning I met Igor at 9:30am to head to Petrodvorets (now Petergof).  Igor was an hour or so late, so I walked around the station singing just to make the Russians think I was crazy.  The first stop was the Grand Palace, then lunch (good food, terrible service), then we headed to his house.  The house was a small 3-room place where he lived with his parents and brother - tiny, but decorated really nicely.  After a long day we headed back to the hotel, where I met Larissa to chat for a few hours before she had to head home.

Moscow
St Basil's on Red Square
Lenin's Mausoleum
The next stop was Moscow, where I was to meet the group doing the Trans-Siberian.  The first day I slept in until 11am when I went to meet the group - who had not arrived yet.  I chatted with the rep from Intourist - the official state travel agency.  We had lunch, then I left at 2pm to get tickets to the Bolshoi Opera and the Circus.  What an amazing bureaucracy - they drove the massive bus to the ticket place with just me as a passenger.  I then left the tour lady and went for a walk around Red Square, St Basil's Cathedral, and all the way around the outside of the Kremlin.  I then walked back to the Hotel Belgrade, stopping by Arbat Street (one of the oldest streets of the capitol) where there were a bunch of street vendors.  I played the smile game with many of the Russians I saw walking - flash the American smile and see if I can get them to smile back.  Not a lot of smiles in Russia.  I bought some ice cream and then headed to the hotel for dinner.  The Intourist lady had arranged an early dinner for me so that I could leave in time for the Opera.  I took a cab to the Bolshoi for the two operas - they were quite good - though I am not an opera fan and did not understand a thing.  The best part was just knowing I was in the incredible opera house - quite surreal.  The following morning I joined the tour group to look around Moscow - this is the group I'd be with for the next 7 days: 4 Swiss, 3 Germans (family with a 4 year old), and myself. We did many of the same things I had done on my own, but still good to spend time with the group.  In addition to this group, on the train I befriended Josh and Alex, two Harvard grads.

Trans-Siberian

Dining Car on the Train
The Gang on the Trans-Siberian
So, time for the Trans-Siberian train, the longest railway in the world.  From Moscow to Beijing is 8,961 kilometers - via Omsk, Novosibirsk, Lake Baikal, Chita, then branching off to Beijing.  I was in the same cabin as Alex and Josh - on the lower bunk which is cooler than the top bunks - the train was insanely hot.  Most of the time on the train was spent talking, drinking, and playing cards and chess.  Most stops were for no more than a few minutes - with us jumping out in the -10 degree Celsius weather and having snowball fights in our shorts and t-shirts - the amusement of the Babushkas on the train.  I learned a few card games, as well as the custom of ensuring empty vodka bottles are never placed on the table - bad things happen if you do that! The cuisine on the train was terrible: the bread palatable, the cabbage soup OK, and everything else pretty disgusting.  Throughout the trip the soup had more and more bones it it - we were all quite sure that the cooks took whatever was left in the bowls and added it back to the pot.  Yuck!  The only thing we can say good about the food is the price: at 3 Rubles a meal we are spending about 18 cents.

Fortunately, after crossing onto China the food car was swapped out and we had Chinese food - much better!  It was a very interesting border crossing.  First, the railroad stock had to be swapped out because the rail gauge in China is different from Russia.  The customs officials found about 300 antelope horns being sneaked in by the guy in the car next to us - it was all confiscated.  The good news is that one look at our cabin and the customs officials just moved on - apparently we don't look like smugglers! 

China
Tiananmen Square
Josh, Alex, and I stayed at the Qiou Yuan hotel, end of bus line #20 in Beijing. After checking in and the best shower in a while, we headed to Tiananmen Square to walk around, and also saw Mao's Mausoleum.  We ate a terrible lunch near the hotel but this was made up for by dinner at the biggest KFC in the world.  We were supposed to meet Verner and family (German family from the train) but never found the restaurant.  We ended up bumping into Herb, a guy from Florida who was studying in China.  He was staying at the same hotel so came back with us.  The following day I spent wandering the Forbidden City - what an incredible place that was built in 15 years.  Dinner was at a restaurant next to the Peking Duck Restaurant - which was pretty good - we had some hot peppers which really burned our mouths.  Josh's foot hurt so he went back to the hotel, while Alex and I headed to Charlie's Bar to meet Herb for a beer.  I stepped out to call my parents - only a 6 yuan charge to connect with AT&T - before meeting the Alex, Herb, a Kiwi, Irish guy, and some Finns.  So, we all adjourned to a private bar established by an Ozzie and Ugandan.  It is behind the Hotel Jianguo on Tiananmen Road, where Charlie's Bar is.  After a drink there a few of us headed over to the disco in the World Trade Center - China World Hotel. It was 40 FEC to get in - we could not afford it so one of the Finns paid our way.  We danced the night away, even getting requests in with the DJ.

At the Beijing Duck Restaurant
Great Wall of China
The next day I stayed in bed reading, then went with my roommate Aidi and his French friends the the Beijing Duck restaurant - where they use every single part of the duck.  The food was great, but not enough: so when the table next to us left, Aidi went over and grabbed their leftovers!  On the way back saw the Temple of Heaven.  That night 15 of us from the hotel went to see the Chinese Acrobats - just amazing.  The following day Josh and I headed to the Great Wall - along the way we stopped by umpteen different palaces and temples, including the Ming Tombs.  I needed to change money, so found a black marketer who gave me change for $10.  I later found this was a terrible idea, because it was bogus money - completely worthless.  Fortunately Josh spotted me some money so I could continue the rest of the day.  The movie at the Great Wall was good - the woman in charge tried to change us 70 Yuan, so our driver got us the local tickets for 10 instead.  We bumped into Aidi on the wall and spent 1.5 hours just wandering around.  And, that was it for my brief stay in China - off to Bangkok. 

Thailand
Bangkok at King's Birthday Celebration
One night in Bangkok makes a hard man humble, but made me poor!  I arrived without any plans which is usually a recipe for additional expense.  There was a guy who wanted to "take care of me" but he was definitely more interested in taking care of his commission.  Since it was late, I caved and signed up for the nice hotel - though it all worked out b/c the people screwed up the money - so I got a 300 baht taxi and an 800 baht room for free!  I headed out early the next morning to find cheaper accommodation on the Khaosan Road, and finally settled in at the Good Luck Guest House - only 100 baht a night.  I spent the entire afternoon wandering around: December 5th is the King's Birthday so there was a huge festival and celebration.  I watched a game of getting a ball in a basket (an extension of hacky-sack) and then went to the main field.  There were tons of Scouts helping out and must have been hundreds of thousands of people attending.  I grabbed a free dinner of rice and "something" and amused the locals as I ate with chopsticks.  I stayed to watch the parade and then ceremony - pushing my way up to the front and suggesting I was with the press with my big camera.  Dinner was at some street carts, including octopus which was very rubbery.  I walked back to the hotel and picked up some books, including Don Regan's book For the Record.  I had already read Larry Speaks book while in Finland, so I was working my way through the Regan cabinet! 

The next day I got up and did some Christmas shopping and then dropped by the AMEX to pick up some letters - four were waiting for me.  I also posted a lot of Christmas cards (that I wrote on the Trans-Siberian) and did a bit of shopping - a fake Rolex and Ray Bans for $20.  I then headed to Patpong Road to see the sights there -something a Texas boy does not see all the time. 

Ko Samui Beach
The next leg of the trip was to head down to Ko Samui.  It was a long bus ride that was brutal for me as a result of some street food I ate - terrible idea!  After the long trip down we got off the bus and I met some Israelis and a Dutch Guy (Leo) - we all took a taxi to Chaweng Beach on the other side of the island.  I ended up sharing a bungalow at K-John's for $2 a night with Leo.  The Israelis stayed at the same place, and we also met Gunilla and Annette, a couple of Swedes who were on holiday.  My time on the island was nothing but relaxing: cranking through a heap of James Clavell Asian Saga novels (Tai Pan, King Rat, Nobel House, etc), playing volleyball, swimming, hiking, watching movies, and dancing at the Reggae bar at night.  Leo and I did a couple of swims out to an island taking 45 minutes.  After a few glorious, relaxing days on the island it was time to head back to Bangkok for the flight to Australia.

Bridge on the River Kwai
After the 320 baht bus ride I arrived in Bangkok at 7am.  I found a 50 baht hotel back on Khoasan Road, and found a taxi driver who offered a free tour of the city on the condition I went to some Gem stores.  He took me to the main post office to send off 16 letters, to the AMEX office to pick up mail, and then to the giant Standing Buddha.  He took me to two jewelery stores which I had already been to, but teh driver did not get gas for taking me so he was pissed off.  This meant that I had to walk back to the hotel - great exercise!  The next day I did a Kwai River tour which included going to an old POW camp, a WWII cemetery, the River Kwai Bridge, and a train ride along the death railway before seeing the largest pagoda in Thailand (yup, another pagoda!).  I met up with Anette and Gunilla and chatted with them over lunch.  I hopped an incredibly cramped mini van to the airport, checked in the luggage, and was off to Australia!

Continued on Next Blog

Wednesday, October 31, 1990

RTW Trip - Europe - Fall 1990

Continued From Previous Blog

Sweden
Kerstin and Mia in Vaxjo
After a fire-drill departure from Kandersteg I spent a lot of time sleeping on the train - all the way to Berne where I picked up my passport and visa - then back to sleep until Basel where we found Mike and Connie's shop Chat Noir.  After a bit of shopping we met Mike at 4pm, had another nap, dinner at 8pm (spaghetti followed by creme caramel) and then fully to sleep after chatting with Mike and Connie.  It was their 3 year anniversary that night, so we did crash the party a bit, but the upside is that it was a great dinner with Champagne!

Mia and Yoshi in Kalmar
The next day I got up late (finally caught up on sleep), caught the quick train back to Basel to see Mike and Connie for lunch, read a book while overlooking the Rhine, bought a fleece, saw RoboCop (seriously), then arrived at Basel station to spend the next 20 hours on trains - couchette to Hamburg, inter-city to Copenhagen, and another inter-city to Alvestra, where we waited an hour to get a 15 minute train to Vaxjo where Mia and Kerstin met us.  It was fantastic to see them both again - thought certainly out of context from KISC.  We spent a couple of days in Vaxjo eating and sleeping, filled in with a few walks. 


We arrived quite late to Kalmar - Mia's brother Magnus picked us up from the station and we headed to Mia's parent's house for dinner, eating with the whole family: Ulla, Karl-Axel, Magnus, Mia, and Johnas.  It was a wonderful dinner around the family table.  I slept in the next day - Magnus drove Yoshiko and I in to Kalmar where we met Mia for lunch, went to math and English classes and then walked around Kalmar, including the castle.  We went for a hike around the Lindblad farm - it is a tree farm and some of it is also used for grazing cattle.  The farm is gorgeous - old red and white barns and lots of land - the scout hut for 120 scouts is even on their land.
Farmhouse

Yoshi left the next for the next leg of her adventure, while I had one more relaxing day in Kalmar - spent at the school library, the public library, and then another walk around the town.  After her class I met Mia and her friend Anna for a baked potato. I did receive a letter while at Mia's - from Steve and Jan - saying that they were engaged - and had been for a couple of months!  The only people who knew where their parents, who had been sworn to secrecy.  I called Steve from Mia's house to congratulate them.  One final night at the Lindblad's then I headed to see Victoria from '88.

Vivecca with Her Parents
Gunnel and Suzanne
I took the train from Kalmar to Emmaboda, where after an hour of searching for her came to the stunning realization that I was in the wrong town - I should have been in Karlskronar.  I took the next train there where Victoria was waiting at the station.  We headed to her flat to see slides of her most recent trip.  That evening we went to a night club with her school friends, then crashed so I could get up and to the station for the 11:07am to Emmaboda, then off to Stockholm to see Viveca and Christel.  Christel met me at the station, and waited around for Viveca who could have been on the next train but was not.
We headed to her boyfriend Michel's house, dropped my stuff, and headed to an Italian restaurant where Viveca met us a couple of hours later (along with Michael).  The next day Christel, Michael, and I headed to the Vasa Museum that had opened this year - where there is a boat that sunk in 1623 and is still preserved today.  It was so fascinating that we spent several hours looking around.  That evening was a flat-warming party for Viveca - she had been in the place since June but had yet to celebrate.  There I met her boyfriend Brian who was a great guy.  It was great to meet so many people at the flat, and a heap of us headed to a disco post-party where we met what Brian called "English groupies" - girls who liked to meet English-speaking men.  We spoke with tons of people, making a game of inventing different personal stories for every person we met - until we got caught after too much creativity!  Viveca's sister Jenny was at the club so I met her.  We finally got to bed at 5am, though had to get up at 9am to head to Viveca's summer house in the archipelago.

The cottage was old and quite small, but had amazing character.  After a row I helped Viveca's dad take the boat out of the water.  We took the ferry back to Stockholm - the islands are gorgeous - I should definitely return some day and sail the area.  After a curry dinner with Christel at her house I crashed.  I spent the next day wandering all over Stockholm, getting to know the city a bit and then met the girls for tacos and a movie (Dick Tracy).  The next leg was to Gothenburg to see Suzanne and Gunnel.  I slept and relaxed a lot during the day as the girls had to work.  While in Gotheburg I also met Annika.  It was a quick few days, and then off to Trondheim.

Norway
Marianne Hiking
Marianne in the Cabin
I was on my way to visit Marianne, who was an exchange student at my high school.  After arriving at the train station and changing some money I called Marianne and woke her up!  It had been a long night for her so she was wrecked.  We went to the student center where she was working, then back to her parent's house.  Despite the plans of an early night we ended up going to a party with some of her friends.  We called it an early night at midnight as we were to do some walking the next day.  I was painfully awoken at 8am for a 9am departure heading south to a cabin 2.5 hours away.  While the weather in Trondheim was gorgeous, by the time we got to the cabin it was cloudy, and 30 minutes into the hike it was snowing hard.  We got off track once, but ended up having a great 6 hour hike.  Fish soup and grilled cheese was for dinner - excellent.  The cabin was super - at just 35 kronar it was a steal - and the payment was even on the honor system.  We then headed back to Trondheim for some walking the next day, including goat mountain, a 4 hour hike out and back.  The scenery of this part of the trip was just incredible - despite the dodgy weather, it was just stunning.

At the Hostel in Flam
After the days in Trondheim it was time to head to Oslo on the 8:35am train.  After arriving at the station I made my way to the Haraldsheim Hostel - one of the first places I had to pay for an overnight so far into the trip!  My roommate in the hostel was David (Australian) who was traveling with two other Ozzie girls - Liz and Alanah.  The three of them convinced me to delay my "Norway in a nutshell" departure until the later time - kicking off with the 10:30am train to Myrdal.  I was easily convinced of this reasoning!  We got up the next morning at 7:30am to take advantage of the hostel's all-you-can-eat breakfast that is included in the price.  I sat with David and the girls and read/relaxed/watched scenery the whole way.

On the Boat in the Fjord
It was snowing quite hard the whole way - the snow was deep by the time we arrived in Myrdal - which inspired us to have a snowball flight while waiting for the connecting train to Flam.  The snowball fight helped us meet a two Americans from NY and another Australian - and the Americans joined us on the train to Flam.  The ride down was fantastic - only 12 kilometers but so steep it took us 1.5 hours.  The train stopped a couple of times so we could jump out and take pictures.  It took a bit of wandering around Flam to find a hostel - we ended up getting a couple of cabins for 200 krona each (3 people per cabin).  We bought a jar of spaghetti for dinner, added some carrots and potatoes, and added to the noodles.  Not gourmet, but tasty.  We all stayed up until midnight chatting, then woke at 8am to catch the 8:40am ferry.  Breakfast of toast, jam, and baked beans was speedy as we did not want to miss the ferry.  The fijords we gorgeous despite the crummy weather - I must return some day.  The ferry took us to Gudvangen, then a an hour-long bus to Voss where we then headed to Bergen.  We wandered around Bergen for a few hours - though really did not find a lot to do.  Dinner was lasagne for only 29 krona - what a great deal!  We went to the university and just sat chatting in the student center.  It was the overnight train back to Oslo and then yet another train ride to Copenhagen - still traveling with Liz and Alanah. 

Denmark
At Carlsbeg Brewery
Arriving in Copenhagen I was not really sure of my plans.  I ended up going to the same hostel as the girls, though it took 45 minutes of navigating the city to find it.  We all had spaghetti and soup for dinner, then played a few hands of cards (oh shit and 500) and crashed around midnight.  The next day we tried to check every landmark off the list: castles, national stables, and of course the mermaid.  There were a staggering number of tourists there - all trying to get the exact same photo. We dropped Liz and Alanah at the station and then did some bargain shopping at the supermarket: pasta, onions, and 5 apples - all to last us dinner and breakfast.  After dinner we chatted with a couple of Australians before heading to the TV room.  We headed downstairs and saw Liz and Alanah - there had been no room on the train so they had come back to the hostel.  One of the fun events in Copenhagen was the Carlsberg brewery tour.  It took an hour to walk there from the hostel.  The tour was quick, which was good because the real goal was the beer after.  I downed 3-4 of them, then a huge group of us headed over to the Himalayan restaurant.  I paid for Nick's lunch as he had let me crash in his room one night for free.  While the group was at lunch I went to the Student Travel service to coordinate my Russian visa and Trans-Siberian ticket.  That was the end of Denmark - it was time to head to Frankfurt!

Germany
I called Russ from Hamburg station at 11pm and let him know I'd be in Frankfurt at 6:30am via the overnight train.  The time with Russ was relaxing - we did not do an awful lot.  I did get to see the Babenhausen base where he worked, we saw four movies, and a really good classic car museum.  While at his place we got a call from Cynthia who had worked with us at Steak and Ale.  Also met his good friend Julia while I was there.  Russ and I discussed meeting in Amsterdam after the Irish Reunion. 

Switzerland redux
Dutch Working Party
I had decided to make another visit to KISC before heading to Ireland.  Arriving at 6:30pm I saw the Dutch working party cars in the parking lot - though they were at the Upper Hut celebrating Petra's birthday the following day.  I immediately bumped into Ron and Victoriana.  They mentioned that the Upper Hut was going to stay up until midnight to celebrate Petra's birthday so I just threw my stuff in the Nordic room and Ron, Andrew, and I made the 1.5 hour trek up to the Upper Hut.  Needless to say there were a lot of surprised faces when we barged in the door, carrying the bottle of Baileys that I had picked up at the German border.  The next day Harold, Petra, myself, and another guy hiked from the hut to the Bindercrinde, then over to Bonderspitz, walking home via Allmenalp.  Harald and I ran down and made it to the chalet in 30 minutes, actually beating the other two who took the cable car!

Petra's Birthday Party
That night was the big birthday party - everyone in the staff room with lots of alcohol and a huge cake with 50 candles.  We kicked off the night with Paradise by the Dashboard Light and it went down (up?)hill from there.  We then headed to the High Noon - last night it was open for the season - and had a blast dancing with Wendy, Petra, and two Australian girls I had met on the train and suggested they visit KISC.  We came back, made chips, built a fire, and crashed on the floor that night.  The following day we hiked to the Doldenhorn hut via the fire hut, then over the back side to Oeschininsee, down to the village for an ice cream, then back to the chalet.  The Dutch party left in stages all afternoon, with Harold and Petra heading out at 7pm.  My strongest memory of this time is that of "Poems, Prayers, and Promises" by John Denver playing during "mellow night".  What an amazing time - just relaxing with new friends, doing nothing but sharing stories.

Ireland
At Dave's Cottage
The trip to Ireland was terrible due to my poor planning.  I got the train at 12:30pm and ended up in Paris so late I could not make the connection.  With no french currency to my name I ended up stuck at Paris St Lazare railway station locked in a railway room with a bunch of drunks where I slept on a few seats.  The next day I was able to make my way to Le Havre where I met up with some Americans and split a taxi to the ferry 4 miles away.  It was a blast on the 2.5 hour boat ride - full of Baileys and white wine.  I picked up a couple more bottles of Baileys duty free - though taking it to Ireland is kind of like taking coal to Newcastle?  I took the bus to Cork where I stayed with the Williams, old friends of my parents Howard worked with Dad in '66 and he and Patricia met at my parent's wedding .  The next day I caught the 11am train to Belfast then headed to Annalong to meet everyone for the "Irish Reunion".

The Gang with our Empties
I arrived at 6:30pm and spent a couple of hours trying to find the cottage but had forgotten the directions.  However, finally Warren met me and drove me to the cottage.  Steve B, Anne W, and Yoshi I arrived that night and Steve and I stayed up until 6am talking.  The rest of the people joining for the weekend included Mark S, Nellie , Warren P, Dave F, Rob J, Kerstin B, Kato, Anna-Mike, Nicolette, Jeroen, Adrian (from the Dutch working party), Jan B, Suzy P, Anne O-B, John B, John M, Marty, David P, David M, Ylva, Damian G, Auden, Roope R, Skippy R, and Sue T. - almost 30 people total.  The first day of the reunion (Friday) was pretty mellow for me, just hanging out at the cottage and chatting with people.  The next day the whole group hikes up Slieve Donard, the highest peak in Northern Ireland at 2789 feet.  That night was the big pub night - I helped Warren with the orders, collected the money, and got the food to everyone.  We had three rounds of "public feeding" then everyone in the pub for singing, followed by dancing and throwing ourselves around.  We retired to the cottage for more Guinness and made it to bed at 3am.

Warren Teaching Yoshi Archery
The weather was terrible the next day - rain and wind that even knocked some tents down.  I was fortunate to be in one of the rooms, which was warm enough in my sleeping bag.  Sunday was spent at the beach - writing stuff in the sand and playing bowls and football on the beach.  By the end of the weekend we had finished 16 cases of Guinness, all stacked in their original cases up to the ceiling in the hut.   It was a glorious weekend, and generally the last time we'll have this whole group together. 

A few of us went up to the Scout Center in Belfast to spend a day - did a bit of archery and then headed to Bangor for a swim in the ocean.  Four of then headed down to Dublin - Susy P and I on the train and the two Annes on the bus.  It took a while to find Damian's house - the bus system in Dublin was tricky for us to navigate.  The Annes showed up and left, while Damian, Susy P, Audean, and I headed out to a pub for a few Guinness.  I slept until 10am, then chatted with Damain's parents before heading out to grab the train to Rosslare where I'd catch the ferry to France.

Netherlands
On the train to Rosslare I met a Canadian (Kim) who I traveled with to the Netherlands.  The ferry was not too bad - got about 12 hours of sleep on it.  We arrived late to La Havre, but caught the bus and early train to St Lazare, with enough time to transfer via the metro to Paris Gare du Nord.  Getting there early, Kim and I had a quick pizza and a Perrier in an Italian restaurant across the road and to the right of Gare du Nord.  Then we headed to Rotterdam where Kim and I went our separate ways.

In Amsterdam
In Rotterdam I tried calling Wendy, Marcel, Gerald, and Joey - but none were home.  I took the train to Vlaardingen, just hoping to find someone.  I got hold of Wendy's mother who said she'd be back later, so I headed back to Rotterdam and wandered around there in the morning and back to Vlaardingen in the afternoon.  I was finally able to meet Wendy in the afternoon and grabbed a hot chocolate and apple tart.  We went to volleyball practice (Wendy is coach) - I got to play a bit and embarrass myself a lot.  After a quick trip to Wendy's place we had dinner with her friend Hanneke who bought dinner.  After dinner I took the train via Utrect to Nunspeet to stay the night with Nicolette.  I slept in until noon, then headed to Zwolle with Nicolette and her brothers to do some shopping.  Dinner that night was fondue with a heap of wine, then off to a disco where we danced until midnight.  The next morning I had to get up at 7am to catch the 8:10am to Amsterdam.

Petra and Russ at the Beach
Russ was waiting for me at Amsterdam station.  Since we did not know the station we had said to meet on platform one - which we discovered does not actually exist.   After dropping my stuff in Russ' car we had a quick breakfast, then went for a walk around the city, including De Wallen, the Red Light District.  In the afternoon we went to Anne Frank House which was fascinating.  The museum not only tells the story we all read in high school, but also includes a part about the new rise of fascism and antisemitism.  Dinner was at a little Italian joint, then we wandered around the RLD at night - much different environment than during the day - bizarre to see the counter-culture.  Everywhere we went we were offered hash and coke - in the friendliest manner!  We stayed the night at Bob's Youth Hostel - lots of smoking and drinking in the lobby, but the place was clean.  The next morning we went to the Heineken Brewery for the standard tour.  We had 7 or 8 beers in the room afterward, then headed to the pub with two Ozzies and two Americans (Bob, Dave, Chrissie, and Maree).  We went back for the 2pm tour but it was sold out - argh!  So, back to the pub for more beer.  Russ and I eventually left, had dinner at KFC, then headed off to Haarlem.

Eating with Victoria and Kato
It took a while to find, but we eventually found the station and then slept in the car a while.  Dinner was in a cute cafe where we had spaghetti and wine.  After desert we noticed it was 11pm, so called Petra who met us at the station.  We went back to the cafe for a beer, then all headed to Petra's apartment to crash for the night.  Since we were wrecked from the day before, Russ and I slept in until noon, wandered around a bit, then met Petra at 3pm - she took off from work a couple of hours early.  We headed to the beach at Zandevoort, had dinner at McDonalds, and grabbed some dessert at a little bakery at the side of the road.  After spending some time on the beach we went back to Haarlem and Russ left us as he had to be at work at 5am.  So, Petra and I called some of the gang in Leiden: Victoriana and Jan-Dirk.  We met Victo at 8:30pm and got a tour of Leiden before meeting J-D at his work.  We all stayed out until 12:45am until Petra and I got the train back.  The next morning I slept in again, then headed out to arrange my ticket to Copenhagen before meeting Petra for lunch.  In the afternoon I just wandered around Haarlem again, had a dinner of spaghetti, and saw the movie Presumed Innocent, then just had Mellow Night II at Petra's before falling asleep.  The next morning I left the house early-ish and headed to Utrect.  I met Kato at Utrect station, threw my stuff in left luggage, then we met Victoria G.  We spent the rest of the day sightseeing and eating and drinking - had dinner at the student union, had a few more beers, then I jumped on the 9:15pm overnight train to Copenhagen.

The Netherlands is indeed a tiny country - so small that I actually randomly bumped into two people I knew.  The first was Joey L (KISC '88), who I saw at Haarlem station - I was able to speak with her for a few minutes before each of our trains left.  The other was Mike (Kato's friend).  It really is a small world - I'd just hate to have to paint it.

Back in Scandinavia
Once in Copenhagen I headed over to Student Travel, met Carina there to get all my stuff for Russia, and then took the train to Kalmar again for a free overnight at Chez Lindblad.  Mia picked me up, we grabbed a pizza, then went to see Days of Thunder before heading back to the house to crash.  The next day I took the train up to Stockholm, where Christel met me at 6pm.  We had spaghetti at Michael's, then I spent the night and the rest of the next day at her house just relaxing and catching up - Christel had to study.  The next evening I took the 6pm to Marsta to see Viveca and Brian - we played badminton and had lasagne before I headed back to Christel's.  The next day I packed up, hit the AMEX office for some money, had lunch at Pizza Hut, and got all my paperwork in order.  I met Christel again for dinner (Chinese), then made my way to to the Silja Line ferry for the 7pm to Finland.  On the ferry I had a sauna, then met Paul (Oz) so we had a few drinks until 2am - arriving in Turku at 8am.

Ferry to Finland
The first day in Turku was rough since there was close to no sleep on the ferry.  I was able to get in a nap - Heidi and I hung out talking - and had a few beers at the pub.  The next day we went out to stock up on stuff for the trip: toilet paper, orange drink, spices, toothpaste, paper/pens, and other items I had run out of. I also picked up some books by John Irving and Larry Speaks, as well as a Russian-English dictionary.  I spent the afternoon reading a ton of newspapers while Heidi was in class.  We met for a pizza dinner then went to the pub again before bed.  After Heidi headed for school I packed all my stuff (an enormous amount now) and took the 12:55pm train to Jyvaskyla to meet Pipsa - the train ride was 4 hours.  Frost was all over the ground and it was crazy-cold.  We chatted over a home-made pizza dinner then went to a sauna party with her friends - drinking loads of beer.  I met quite a few really cool people there and stayed out until 2am.  It was snowing hard - really seemed like Christmas weather.  I ended up heading to Tampere with Pipsa and Simo - a really good guy - he promised to take me cross-country skiing some day.  We stayed at Simo's parent's house - had a sauna in their basement followed by spaghetti for dinner.  We then headed out to a pub where I randomly bumped into Paul, the guy I had met on the ferry.  That night I read part of the book What They Don't Teach You at Harvard Business School.  I got the train to Helsinki the next day, arriving at 1pm.  I could not get hold of Heidi, Pavy, or Outi, and Roope and Petter were out of town, so I went to the Stadion Hostel inside the Olympic Stadium.  After an overnight at the hostel, I had my final meal at Pizza Hut, then jumped on the 1:12pm train to Lenningrad!

Continued On Next Blog

For More Photos of the Irish Reunion:

Friday, August 31, 1990

RTW Trip - Switzerland - Summer 1990

Continued From Previous Blog

Arrival
Kandersteg International Scout Center
After leaving England I arrived at Kandersteg International Scout Center at 5:30pm on June 10th. I had wanted to get there in time for my birthday on the 11th.  It had been almost two years since I was at the Center but not surprisingly it was exactly the same old place. I saw Kato S and Dave F in the staff room first, then said hi to Ron E and Rob G, and then saw Susi G and Lomi.  I left my stuff in the staff room and ran over to see Anne W and Jan B - it was fantastic to see them.  We had a long chat, then I headed back to the chalet.  I met with Ron E (back as program director) and outlined my goals for the summer. I started work immediately that night - watching the Chalet during Spring Staff night out (dinner at the Doldenhorn courtesy of the Commissioner from Ireland).  I received a call from Steve saying happy birthday, then off to bed.

Birthday Drinks with Susy, Anne, and Jan
The next day was my actual birthday - I had the day off so ran around the village, caught up on letters, hiked to the Upper Hut and Gallihorn in the afternoon, and made it home just in time for dinner complete with birthday cake for desert.  We adjourned to the Adler for dinner where Jan gave me a card from my parents for a parachute flight from Allmenalp - and some of the leftover money helped pay for a round of drinks for everyone.  The next day was spent cleaning the Upper Hut with Warren P, and Lomi - as well as setting up the solar panel, installing lights, and getting the radio going.  We headed back to the village via mountain bike - quite the ride!

Orientation
Staff Training
While I had arrived early, the rest of the summer staff arrived shortly, then we had the official kickoff of the summer staff - introductions, goals, icebreakers (like human knot and bashing each other with a newspaper).  We also had to get our health checks (make sure we are not contaminating the alps?).  We also learned all about the job - laundry duty, discovery trail, and learned the fire alarm.  We had sport night that evening, followed with dipping Ron in BP Fountain as we were unhappy with his umpiring!  The next day was discovery day around the village.  My team was Kirsten B, Cath O, Dave F, and Skippy R.  This was followed by dinner and overnight in Campsite 39 - with a side trip to the Crystal to celebrate Anne W and Sue's birthdays.

Oeschininsee
The final part of the staff orientation prior to "graduation" was the staff hike.  We should have started with a dawn hike but skipped it as the weather looked a bit iffy - though it ended up being an amazing day.   It was a slow walk to the Upper Hut where we did a climbing workshop culminating in climbing milk rock - very hard for me.  A song fest in the Upper Hut wrapped up the evening before bed.  The following day we climbed the Gellihorn (not for dawn - too lazy for that) and then walked over to Arvenseeli (the lakes) for lunch where we swam before the long trudge to Selden.

Staff Hiking
We camped the night in Selden where Mike from summer '88 met us for dinner - and brought me a hat that held coke cans along with a Coke.  So, I broke my 9 month dry spell and had a coke - delicious!  The next morning we got up at 4:30am for a 6am departure to the Lotchenpass.  We held some ice axe practice on the glacier where I hurt my knee racing David down the slopes.  We all made it back to KISC by about 6pm where Lomi had Rosti prepared for dinner in the Tower.  The orientation was a great way to get to know some of the amazing people I would work with over the summer, including Mike T, Dave F, Kato S, Rob J, Wendy V, Victoriano O, Yoshiko I, Richard B, Nicolette M, Fausto G, Warren P, David P, Skippy R, Mia L, John M, Helena B, Kersten B, Sue T, Neil A, Anne W, Roope R, Jan B, Susi G, Kathryn O, Warren P, John M. Fran M, Ron E, and Mark L. 

The Summer: Work
Staff Fun
So the summer did include work, if you can call it that.  My official role was quartermaster (along with Skippy).  We both spent an enormous amount of time cleaning and organizing the program hut - tossing a lot of crummy or obsolete material.

Assisting with in-camp activities is a big part of the job:  BBQs, Campfires (which I got to blow up like we did at Worth Ranch), giving tours of the Center to day-guests, pioneering bridges, abseiling, and any miscellaneous activity that needed planned. The other part of the role was guiding hikes: to the Blumlisalp, umpteen cheesery hikes to visit Rudy the farmer, and one Lotchenpass hike with an Irish group and John where the cloud/fog was so thick we ended up going in a complete circle and ending back at the beginning.  The fog did clear and we made it to the Lotchenpass Hut, but I never heard the end of this one!

Jan on August 1st, Swiss National Day
The big summer event at KISC is Swiss National Day - August 1st - the busiest week of the year at the Center.  My responsibility was Carnival on the parade ground.  We set up a huge tower in the middle with a PA system so loud it go complaints from the village.  We started the day with aerobics led by Kato, then a huge breakfast that everyone joined at the same time.  We then had the wide-game - I participated in the ground sheet one - where 20 people get on a ground sheet and then keep folding in half until not everyone could fit.  Other games included pass the orange, push a plate of shaving creme with your nose, walk up a slippery uphill groundsheet, and water balloons.

Christmas in July
The carnival was after lunch, culminating with a launch of a heap of balloons.  After cleaning the sports field we had a quick dinner in the Chalet before joining the procession to village, arriving at the bonfire in the main field and did a heap of yells.  The staff wrapped up the evening at the Bernerhof for ice cream before crawling into bed wrecked.

Another big event for the summer was the first KISC Alpine Challenge with 3 days of events.  The first day was navigating the Uchinintal to collect 27 markers.  The second day was "incidents" such as map making, stretcher carrying, blindfolded confidence course, tying a clove hitch around a tree, and a first aid/climbing one.  I helped with this - Dave was hanging on a cliff with a "broken arm" Jan at the bottom with a "head injury".  Jan "died" at least 3 times - thank god nothing was real!  The final day was brainteasers at Oeschininsee - like sending messages, getting a key out of a tube, and weighing 5 rocks.  The last event was a race: run to the water's edge, row to the far side of the lake and back, then run to the finish.  I competed in this one with the staff team but we were not winners....

The Summer: Fun
Steve Hiking
As if the "work" part of the summer was not fun enough, I was able to set aside time for non center-related activities.  While too mnay to enumerate, there were some fun highlights.  One night at the Alpenrose Dave, Warren, Mike, Sue, and I developed the "Kanderstegger Hoteltest".  This was a takeoff of the "Huttentest" where you visit all 8 Swiss Mountain Club huts in the area in the least amount of time.  Our version was to visit all major pubs in town to have a beer - and see who could do it is the shortest time.  We developed a semi-professional booklet for this - not sure what the actual record is now!  Another fun activity was surfing the Kander by tying an old board to the bridge and trying to stand on it.  We were able to go from side to side, but god is that water cold!  Mia and I did a day hike over the pass to Adelboden to see the Girl Scout Chalet - about time after we have so many tours to the Guides visiting the Chalet.  We also had our fair share of water fights - many (most?) instigated by me.  I met my Waterloo one morning when walking out of the chalet to recycle some cardboard.

I was grabbed by most of the staff, tied to the flagpole, and drenched with buckets of Kander water, soaked by the fire hose, and covered with more shaving cream than I knew existed.  It took a 30 minute shower to warm up!  The unofficial song for the summer must have been Meatloaf's Paradise by the Dashboard Light and a group of us (generally Anne, Sue, Kato, David, Fausto, Skippy, and I) could be found weekly doing our rendition as an air band.  We even blew out a speaker playing this too loud. 

Selden Valley
Since Steve spent about a month of his summer at KISC; he, Dave, Jan, and I reprized the epic end of summer staff hike'88.  We took the train and bus to Greisalp and walked to the Gespalthorn hutte, spent the night, and then walked the Gespalt glacier to the Mutthorn hutte - taking 3 hours this time instead of the 14 hours it took 4 years prior.  We bivouacked in the little hut on the Petersgrat and the next morning climbed the Chinglehorn.  It was a beautiful climb through a deep gulley (snow and ice) where we had to front-point the crampons the whole way up - a great feeling of accomplishment for me.

Oeschinsee From the Freundenschneur
There were a quite a few old friends passing through the Center over the summer.  Ryby visited with a buddy for a couple of weeks and we all had a few fun nights out - including the one where Ryby held court at the Crystal, telling everyone a "made up" story about me.  I could not stop laughing.  Heidi from summer '88 came a couple of times.  Mike (along with Connie) came by for "Christmas" to play Santa - it was one of a few trips we saw him.  Of course Steve was there, and Nick from Oz stopped by as well.  Russ also visited a couple of times from Germany.  My parents came with Graham and Margaret.  Kathy, who I met earlier on the trip at Moyra/Bill's house, was traveling around Europe and stopped by the Center for a couple of days - we hiked the Freundenschnur, the path behind/above Oeschininsee. 

Kirsten, Mia, and Helena
While the summer was full of quotes and "ones for the book", a few that stand out are Richard's "it is easier to ask forgiveness than permission:, the posting in the staffroom: "Heaven is where the police are British, the cooks French, the mechanics German, the lovers Italian, and it is all organized by the Swiss.  Hell is where the chefs are British, the mechanics French, the lovers Swiss, the police German, and it is all organized by the Italians".  Others include "my mind is OK but I can't control my body" and "no human being believes that any other human being has the right to be in bed while he himself is up", "the lights are on but no-one is home", and "ta-da".

Wrap Up
The end of summer staff hike this year was a walk to the Lammernhutte via Gemipass to the Wildstruble, but weather got the better of us so we skipped the Wildstruble and instead just slept until 10am and walked back to the Upper Hut via the Talisgalcier.  We spent the 3rd day climbing around the Upper Hut area - I tried lightening route but fell more times than I should mention.

Kandersteg from Almenalp
We cleaned up the program hut at the end of the summer, determined to leave it in good shape for the next crew.  At the same time, the Dutch Working Party was at the Center - their project this time was to demolish the old tower bunkhouse that was to be re-built new.  Some of this group was the same as '88 - including Harold, the group leader.  I made tacos for the Dutch party as well as the staff for my last night - way too much food, but good nonetheless.  A night out in the Adler wrapped up the evening.  Yoshico and I were to depart the next day, but since my passport and visa had not yet arrived in the mail we postponed for a day.  The (real) last night saw us at the Crystal and the High Noon where we met a heap of people.  It ended up being a fun, wild night back at the staff flat with Andy from the Steinbock, Dave, Anne, and 4 others who we met along the way.  I was woken the next morning by a phone call from Yoshico trying to find me for the train out - so it was a massive dash out to catch the train for the next leg of my adventure.

Continued on Next Blog

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