Switzerland (Kandersteg) - Aug 2024

For our 25th anniversary of getting engaged, we decided to go back to where it happened.  After spending two weeks in Italy, we went to Kandersteg for ten days.  We drove there from Modena, taking the car train from Goppenstein through the tunnel into Kandersteg.  The train ride only took about 15 minutes.  

Oeschinensee

Accommodation

Scout Center - We got the Atas room in the Kanderlodge - it's a large room with its own bathroom so we did not have to share.  When we arrived, we got a bottle of champagne and two Kandersteg water bottles at check-in and then in our room, they placed our towels in the shape of swans with two heart shaped tins of chocolate - they did this to celebrate our engagement anniversary and probably to thank us for our donations!! The room was great - they pushed the two twins together for us and we had a table with two chairs and a large wardrobe so that we could unpack our clothes.

Scout Center

Activity

Our main focus here was hiking but we also got a little down time to relax and read.  While here, we did the following:

Doldenhorn Hike - the first day that it was not raining, we did this hike as a 'warm up' hike.  The hike down the other side taking you into Kandersteg was closed due to the landslide so we hiked in and out the same way.  Our hike up was all cloudy / misty but the hike down was sunny and gorgeous.  It took us 4 hours, going 6 miles and 2.5K elevation gain.  We had lunch at the top - the manager (or owner - not sure) was super nice and welcoming.  We had a vegetable/leek soup with bread, sausage and cheese and a rosti with fried egg and cheese - both very yummy! We learned that next year (in 2025) they will expanding and remodeling the hut and thus will have to shut down the hut for the year. So we took photos as the next time we are back, it will look very different.

Doldenhorn Hut

Oeschinensee Loop / Oberbergli Hike - We had intended on hiking up to Bluemlisalphutte but Shawna was not feeling well.  So we did the Oeschinensee Loop hike and made it about 400 feet above Oberbergli (just when the hike starts to get steep up the scree to the ridge) - this is the higher mountain cafe above the back of Oeschinensee.  We took the high route on the way out and then the lower route on the way back.  On our way back down, we stopped to have a drink at the mountain hut and then walked down to the lake and had lunch at the lake (see below).  In total, we walked 8 miles and gained 2.5K elevation.  

View from Oberbergli Hut

Boating / Engagement Re-enactment on Lake Oeschinensee - We had intended to do this activity on Sunday, the day of our actual engagement anniversary, but the weather did not cooperate so we did this in the middle of the week.  We brought cheese, bread (bought from the bakery) and champagne (one of the bottles was from our time in Siena with Ewan and Sharon and the other bottle was provided by KISC when we checked in).  We took the gondola up and got to the lake early with the worry that they would run out of boats so we sat on one of the benches to take in the beauty.  We then rented the boat for an hour - which they now limit to only one hour - so, after we told the guy our plans to re-enact our engagement, he gave us a little extra time.  Keith rowed while Shawna prepped lunch and poured champagne - we made it out to the waterfalls and had our lunch.  Then Keith re-proposed - this time asking for another 60 years!! Of course, Shawna said yes! We took the gondola back into town and then relaxed back at the lodge for the rest of the afternoon.

Engagement Re-enactment on Oeschinensee

Eiger Trail Hike - We had done this hike the last time we were in Switzerland and just loved it - in fact, we would put it as our second favorite hike (after Oeschinensee)! We went back to do the hike - driving first to Grindenwald and then we took the train to Alpiglen where we started the hike doing it one way to Kleine Scheidegg.  We took the higher route up to Eiger Glacier where they now have a gondola that goes to this point from Grindenwald, allowing people to catch the train to Jungfrau without having to go to Kleine Scheidegg.  We had seen this being built in 2019 - the last time we did the hike - so was cool to see it mostly finished (they are still building out a restaurant).  The facility is quite impressive.  We then hiked down to Kleine Scheidegg, passing along Fallbodensee, which is a man made lake.  We celebrated the hike with brats and beer (see below) and then took the train back to Grindenwald and drove back to Kandersteg.  

Eiger Trail Hike

Allmenalp Hike - We hiked up to Allmenalp, taking the longer route up.  The trail is part trail, part gravel road with beautiful views of the surrounding valleys. It took us 2 hours and 20 minutes to go 4.2 miles and 2.2K elevation.  We had lunch at the top at the cute hut (see below) and sat for a while to take in the views and to watch the paragliders who took off from the hill just above where we were sitting. We then took the gondola down which is an experience in itself - small gondola that only fits about 8 people that you have to press a button to get to the bottom, down a steep slope! It's a must do!!

Allmenalp Hike

Schwarzgratli Hike - We took the Sunnbuel gondola up to the valley that leads to Gemmi Pass and then hiked past the Hotel Schwarenbach up to Schwartgratli Pass. We had intended on hiking down Ueschinentall Valley back to Kandersteg but we reached a very steep party with steep drops that freaked Shawna out so we hiked back the same way we came.  In total, we did 10 miles and 2K elevation gain.  It was a beautiful hike and was nice to see a new part of Kandersteg that neither of us had hiked before.  We had lunch at the hotel on the way back down (see below) before taking the gondola back down to the valley.

Schwarzgratli Hike

Restaurants

We had intended on doing more cooking at the Kanderlodge but when we assessed the equipment in the common area kitchen, we opted to do simple things there while also enjoying some of the local restaurants.  We had most breakfasts at the lodge in our room - yogurt, coffee, etc - and we had two dinners there - out on the deck, we had cheese and crackers one night and salad another night.  We also dined at the following places:

Marmotte - Great place for pastries in town.  We went here for breakfast two mornings to have cappuccinos and a few croissants.  

Marmotte

Schweizerhof - We went for lunch and had a great Greek salad and coconut curry soup!

Ruedihus - Had dinner here at our favorite restaurant in town.  We had fondu, raclette and rosti with a bottle of wine - all very tasty. We loved it so much that we went back for our final night.

Ruedihus

Adler - We went for lunch and had a salad (just OK) and udon noodles with veggies (tasty).

Doldenhorn Restaurant - We went for dinner to celebrate our 25th engagement anniversary. We had gone here the night we got engaged.  And while a nice restaurant and nostalgic to us, we continue to be disappointed by the food here - so we both agreed, we don't need to go back.  We shared a fish trio appetizer that was tasteless, a truffle risotto that was pretty good and the lamb which was just OK.  

Doldenhorn Restaurant

Doldenhorn Hut - Had lunch here during our Doldenhorn hike. See info above. 

Des Alpes - Had dinner here.  We are worried as the reviews were mixed but we were pleasantly surprised.  Shared a goulash soup and pizza - both pretty good.  

Berghotel Oeschinensee - Had lunch here after our hike.  Shared a chili and pasta (needed a break from Swiss food) - both pretty good.  Also had a nice cold beer.  Sat out on the deck and enjoyed the views.  

Berghotel Oeschinensee

Au Vieux Chalet - Had a great dinner here.  We shared lamb chops, sliced pork in a mushroom sauce and rosti.  All delicious and the restaurant is very cute. We would put this place in our top three.

Bergrestaurant Kleine Scheidegg - We had lunch here after our Eiger hike - having brats, rosti and beer while sitting on the patio, looking at the majestic mountains.  Best lunch!!

Bergrestaurant Kleine Scheidegg

Ermitage - Located near the gondola to Oeschinensee, we had dinner here.  Had raclette (which was better than Ruedihus), a goat cheese salad and tomato soup.  All very good.  

Allmenalp - Had lunch here after our hike at the top of Allmenalp.  Such a cute place.  We had vegetable soup with bread and brat with a cheese plate - so yummy! And the views are incredible.  

Allmenalp

Nico's - Located on the other end of town from the scout center, we dad dinner here.  Restaurant is very nice, staff were super nice and food was delicious.  Now putting this restaurant in the top three and one we would go to again for a 'nicer' dinner.  We shared a delicious salad, ravioli and a trout dish - only downside was the fish was whole so we had to pick around the bones.

Hotel Schwarenbach - Located in the valley that leads to Gemma Pass (up the Sunnbuel gondola), we had lunch here after our hike.  Great views but the food was just OK.  We had a veggie soup and a salad.